BIRD PHOTOGRAPHY GEAR
Let's talk about photography Gear: What do you need
Gear can be tools or can be objects of collection; the first will serve you in your photography. The later, will only serve your in your chats.
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First, some definitions:
Full frame cameras: camera which sensor measures approximately 36mm X 24mm. Canon 5D II, 1DS MK III, Nikon D700, D3 and D3X
APS-C cameras: Cameras which sensor is approximately 22.3mm x 14.9mm. Canon Rebels, Xt, 20D to 60D, 7D, all other Nikon cameras. In this case, Nikon APS-C sensors are a little bigger than Canon APS-C
APS-H cameras: well there is only one which is the Canon 1D (MK I to MK IV)
Compact cameras: Small portable cameras with non removable lens, which sensor is regularly small as your little finger nail or smaller. Very practical for the ones who travel and do not want to be bothered by carrying photography gear. I will not talk about compact cameras but when I will mention focals and lens, this should help you choose the compact camera by checking the focals built in the compact cameras)
Prime lens: a camera lens with only one fixed focal. Ex. 35mm
Zoom lens: a camera lens with a zoom range of focals. Ex. 24-70mm
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Gear for Birds photography:
Birds photography is the type of photography where, "be quick but don't show it" should become your motto
First you need a fast camera starting at 5 or 6 i/s. Your camera focus performance has to respond to the agility and speed of the birds. Entry level cameras has to be eliminated for someone who want sharp professional look shots. You should look at the top end of the mid range and the top professional range cameras (Canon 7D, 5D III, 1D IV, 1D X/Nikon D4, D4s, D7000, D300).
You cannot think about doing bird photography below 300mm and even this range is limited. A minimum of 400mm reach should be appropriated to start getting results.
I will mostly talk about Canon lenses since these are the ones I am using. Nikon shooters can find the equivalent in their range of products.
The basics: Performance Recommandation(IQ, Speed, etc)
The basics will allow you to do some birds in flights, as well as photographs under smaller range.
The Performers (Super Teles) and their Nikon equivalents:
* In the case of the 300 f/2.8L IS, I should add that this is a stellar lens and very usable for birds in flight handheld.
Extenders are practical as they allow you to increase your focal (your reach) without bringing an other lens or a bigger lens. Canon offers the new EF 1.4X MK III and the EF 2X MK III which are superior to the previous versions. The 1.4X paired with one the the super tele and the 70-200mm will produce very sharp pictures with minimal flaws. The new 2X is also very performant but image degrades a little but it still keeping a good sharpness. I am asked many times about using extenders with the 100-400mm or the 70-300 mm. The answer is you loose a lot of sharpness and images are degraded. If your goal is to produce images for the web, the extenders will do with these lenses but if your goal is to make large prints, then you will see degradation and lack of sharpness. Nikon offers the 1.4X, 1.7X and 2X extenders.
When you use extenders, you lose speed: 1 stop for the 1.4X and 2 stops for the 2X. So make sure you put them on fast lenses to get enough speed and to stay compatible (lens max aperture+loss of stops) with your autofocus. All APS-C cameras can autofocus up to f/5.6: a prime lens of f/4 max aperture+1.4X extender. Only Canon pro cameras(1D, 1DS) can autofocus at f/8(with only the center focus point) so you would be able to use let's say a Canon 500mm f/4L + a 2X extender (f/4+2stops=f/8) which would give you 1,000mm.
The Flash "extender":
More often than none, you will be in shaded or dark area to shoot birds. Flash became practical to highlight details and also add the catch light in the bird eyes. But since the birds are usually far from you, you need an "extender" to push the light from your flash to distance. Comes the Better Beamer. The BB is a tool that you fix on your flash head and which position a fresnel lens in front of your flash. You will use this tool when you are using at least a 300mm lens.